Removing and replacing the Sub-Woofer in the TT Roadster
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These are instructions for removing and replacing the Sub-Woofer in the TT Roadster

The grille comes off easily, but it will make a 'snap' when you do it.

It may be helpful to use a pick tool like this to loosten one side.

It looks like this when it's off.

This may help you to decide where to pry also.

Remove these 4- T-25 torx screws.

You will then need to remove this whole center panel, that goes up to the top, and bends over to the back of the center rear. This piece is captivated in a number of places by metal clips. They are in snug. Once you remove the sub-woof, you will need to reach in and grab the edge of the frame, from inside the frame, to remove this trim panel. There is another set of screws that hold the sub assembly in place.

The OEM speaker is a cheap dual voice-coil model.

Here is the whole set-up.

It is a dual amp configuration of a Philips TDA8563Q 2x40W amp chip. There are two of these "chips" on this board. One amp runs the sub-woof, in a dual voice-coil mode, the other, runs the two cheap-o rear speakers. These guys.

I removed the cheap OEM amp, shown here, and replaced it with a 5-channel.

I replaced all my 5 speakers and power amp in my non-"Bose Upgraded" roadster. I used a Rockford-Fosgate 8" sub, to replace the cheap OEM one. Here is the OEM Sub-woof, a real cheap 8" basic speaker.

I use a 5 channel amp, that has a separate crossover and amp for the sub-woof. I too was plagued by excessive vibration and resonance coming form the OEM sub "enclosure", if you can call it that. I solved my vibration problem by lining the opening where the OEM sub is, first with the DynaMat product. Get the self-sticking type. Start in the middle of the bottom, so as to make a complete seal around the corners, and the various holes/spaces that are inevitably there.

Seal as much as you can with this stuff, and try to over-lap the seams a bit.

Then go to your local building store and get some fiberglass insulation. Home Depot has a small roll that is perfect for this. Cut it into a shape that will fill the opening, and stuff it in. Try to line it well, but don't be too worried about how it's done. This goes back to my old home-built speaker days, when you lined the enclosure with fiberglass to absorb the errant speaker boominess.

If you look closely here, you can see a pocket left for the back of the sub to nesstle in.

Here is a shot of the new sub-woof, a Fosgate 8" model.

The sound is now more pleasent, no vibrations or boominess. I can turn up the level on the sub, and get better over-all low level response from the system.

And yes, the whole thing plays much louder and cleaner while cruising at 80.

By Jeff Bipes